Concert in the Community center of Cherichevo, December 14th 2013

On 14th of December there was a pre-Christmas and New year meeting in the Community center of Chernichevo. One of the highlights in the event was the performance of the local amateur folk group. The small village from the Eastern Rhodopes is struggling to preserve its traditions and folklore. This year the group won a silver medal at the international Balkan Folklore Festival in Nedelino town. 

The building of the Community center is just like everything else in the village: well built few decades ago, but badly maintained today. As you can see in the video, the conditions in the Community centers are miserable - a falling plaster, a damaged electrical installation, a leaking roof. In this poor mountain area where the closest town is 25 kilometers away, life is hard. Private and public properties bear the signs of decline because of the lack of funding, but the singers deserve admiration for their devotion and will! What do you think drives these Bulgarian women? 

I think there are two reasons: first, they really want to keep and share their cultural heritage. Since their songs are part of their local culture and identity, by singing them, they build their sense of satisfaction from who and what they are, and strengths their sense of community. This is a very healthy approach. And second, their participation in the folklore group makes their life more diverse and interesting - they hold weekly meetings, or travel for some fests around the region, and they even have sung in a TV show. 

Lets wish them good luck!

Seven centuries later: did the dance remain the same?

Two months ago I wrote a post about medieval Bulgarians' life, seen through the frescoes of churches and monasteries from the 13th and 14th centuries. The post become very popular and this is not my merit - it is because of these spectacular masterpieces which bring the millennial heritage of the Bulgarian people. 

Today I will show you something really cool: (at least) seven centuries old tradition in folk dances. 

14th century: Bulgarian horo dancers from the Tower of Hrelyo in Rila monastery, 1334-35.

This is the medieval original: dancers hold their hands over one another. This approach is still in use today! Look at the picture below. It was taken several hours ago in the south Bulgarian town of Harmanli - seven centuries later the tradition is still alive!

21st century: Bulgarian amateur horo dancers from the town of Harmanli
during their repetition, 2013.

So, did the dance remain the same? I can't claim this with certainty but obviously the approach that dancers use to hold their hands, is the same.

Plowing time in Chernichevo

It is a warm, multicolored and homelike autumn, and the people in the mountain village of Chernichevo start to plow.

In this sunny late October morning Mr. Ibryam Tokov plows with a horse and a plow, as people in the village have being doing for centuries. He prepares the land for the next year main culture - tobacco. Mr. Tokov makes beds, and next year he will plant there the tobacco seedlings. It usually happens in the end of February - beginning of March. The name of the horse is Gosho.

A market day in 19th century Plovdiv

Plovdiv is one of the most beautiful Bulgarian cities. It is the biggest city of Thrace - a very ancient place, which proudly brings the heritage of several historical and cultural epochs, and preserves them up today. It was the Thracian Eumolpius, the Greek/Byzantine Philippopolis, the Roman Trimontium, the Slavic Puldun, the Turkish Filibe, and now Plovdiv...

The Czech-Bulgarian artist Ivan Mrkvicka left to us a nice painting of the old market in the late 19th century Plovdiv. His 1883 work "Plovdiv market" reveals a lot about the life of the population in and around the city.

Thanks to Mrkvicka we have an intriguing source of information about the social, demographic and cultural trends in the Bulgarian urban society in the end of the 19th century. Let's take a look at it!

People

Most of the people at the market follow the traditional Bulgarian peasant fashion. In the left side of the picture are depicted Bulgarian women selling birds and eggs. We recognize that they are Bulgarians by their clothing. They wear red or white cloths on their heads. Also they wear aprons, as in the foreground in the picture there is a lady with red apron and red cloth on her head. The clothes were not the only thing that brought the rural spirit. The whole economy was based on agriculture. Well, from today's point of view it is good that the people followed the principle "Buy local."

The man with a horse wears poturi (pants), poyas (wide red textile belt), elek (vest), and kalpak (hat). The broad leather disagi (saddlebags) on the horse serve to transport the purchases.

An adult Turk with a long beard, dark suit and red fez is squatting and probably asking about the price of the bird that he has chosen. Two Turkish boys with turbans carry birds, and one of them is showing something to the Bulgarian orthodox priest (the man in right with black cassock, kamelavkion and beard). This detail clearly represents the tolerance between the ethnic and religious communities in Plovdiv. The Turkish women are missing in the painting, which is quite interesting, because even the lack of something can be a subject of discussion. In this time among the Turkish community there was a custom that men and women can not be mixed in the public spaces. 

The young elegant lady with European clothes and hat in the right side of the painting represents the wind of change in the Bulgarian town. Just behind the man with a horse, we see the head of another lady with European-style hat. These two ladies are the only persons to belong to the more educated and prosperous class of the new Plovdiv's bourgeoisie. 

Еnvironment 

There are two minarets in the distance - they mark the presence of mosques built by the Ottomans. It was practical to build the religious temples in the centers near by the administrative and social buildings, like palaces, markets and public baths. The round building with a domed roof probably was a han (inn), where travelers and traders from far could rest. Behind the women, selling birds, there is a dyukyan (shop). 

The paved square shows that the market was in the center - the most affluent and wealthy part of the city. As for the public welfare, there were no street lighting, water supply and sanitation.  

The heights at the rear of the picture depict some of the famous 7 hills around which the city spreads. That is why Plovdiv was called The City of the Seven Hills. Cool, isn't it?

+ + + 

This was a short look at the life and the social structure of the people in Plovdiv in the 1880s. It's not enough to draw general conclusions, of course, but it's a good start for us to learn from the artifacts around us. 

The life in medieval Bulgaria, seen through the frescoes in three old orthodox churches

We don't know much about the life of the medieval Bulgarians, about their daily fashion, food, rituals, customs, folk songs and beliefs. Unfortunately, most of the written heritage was destroyed through the centuries, and the oral traditions gives us only fragmental and not systematized knowledge. 

But still there are ways to reconstruct parts of the lost heritage of the Bulgarian people in the Middle ages. I selected for you a short collection of frescoes that present some interesting features of the medieval life in our lands. The frescoes are taken from three different places in Western Bulgaria, and they are all drawn in 13th-14th centuries. 

Lets start with the wonderful 14th century paintings from the chapel in The Tower of Hrelyo in Rila monastery. The stone tower is 23 meter high. It was built by the powerful local feudal Hrelyo in 1334-35 to protect the monks. The last, fifth floor is a chapel with unique frescoes. The paintings present commoners' festivities: horo dancers, musicians, and a group of elders... 

Musicians from the chapel in the Tower of Hrelyo, 14th century.

The first fresco presents some of the instruments, used by the commoners for their holidays. A horn, an 8-string instrument similar to tambura, and another instrument (in the middle) which I can't recognize. Two of the musicians sit on small decorated stools. The weird thing is that the seats of the chairs are not horizontal, but inclined.  

A drummer, painted right
from the other players. 

Musician, painted left
from the other players.

Bulgarian horo dancers. 

There is something very interesting in this folk dance. The way people hold their hands over one another is unique and still in use today. And just like nowadays, the leader of the dance waves a piece of cloth.

The elders.

The frescoes from the Tower of Hrelyo show the clothing, the music instruments, and the dances of the common people in the middle of the 14th century, in the eve of the Ottoman conquest. The strange shoes are called navoi and were rolled around the feet like foot wrappings. The medieval Bulgarians wore trousers, that followed the shape of the feet. The main garment was the tunic, cinched perhaps with a belt or rope. Usually the tunics were decorated at their edges. 

The Tower of Hrelyo. In 1844
was built an additional bell tower. 
Photo: Wikipedia.  

Lets continue with the murals in the church of Zemen monastery. It has spectacular images from mid-14th century, representing Biblical scenes. But there is one particular painting that depicts the moment of forging the nails for the crucifixion of Christ. 

Medieval Bulgarian smithy.

This fresco from Zemen monastery's church represents a real medieval smithy. The characters in the scene with the sharing of the garments of Christ (below), are dressed in medieval style, too:

And finally, there are two great 13th century paintings from the glorious Boyana church near Sofia. The church was painted on the order of sebastocrator Kaloyan and his wife Desislava (below left) in 1259. One fresco depicts the donors, and another fresco depicts tzar Konstantin Tikh and tzaritza Irina (below right). Here they are - the spectacular clothes of the Bulgarian aristocrats from the Second Bulgarian Kingdom.

In my opinion Desislava was more cute than Irina, and better dressed. What do you think?

The Cabbage epic, part 1: The story of the salad from cabbage and carrots

Autumn comes slowly, bringing new colors, moods, and wishes. It brings new flavors and tastes in our kitchens, too. One of the foods of the autumn is cabbage, and today I am inspired to tell you more about its usage in the Bulgarian cuisine.

Cabbage is among the eternal Bulgarian foods. It had an important place in Bulgarians' lives in the Middle Ages. And this is a real story from the late-13th century. An epic story, representing the unbreakable relationship of the Bulgarian man and the cabbage!

John Koukouzel (photo: Wikipedia)

In his youth, the great Medieval composer John Koukouzel (Bulgarian by origin) studied in Constantinople. Once his classmates asked him what was his today's dish, and he answered that he ate broad beans with cabbage. 

The young John spoke poorly Greek, so he combined two words: κουκιά (Greek "koukia" for broad beans) and зеле (Bulgarian "zele" for cabbage). This is how he received his nickname, which gradually became a surname. 

I will share with you a recipe that is perfect for this season: a salad from cabbage and carrots. My father taught me years ago, and now I often make it. This is one of these things - from father to son - which we transfer through generations in our family. Believe me, if Koukouzel could taste it, he would write a ballad about this salad!

Ingredients for 2 big servings: 

The basic ingredients

• a half from a small cabbage 
• two big carrots 
• salt to taste 
• lemon / vinegar (by preference) 
• olive oil, sunflower oil, canola oil (by preference) 
• several olives 
• very small slice of leek - 2-3cm. (optional) 
• a slice of celery (optional)

The recipe may vary, depending of the location and the available products, but the basic things are cabbage, carrots, salt, oil, and vinegar. Everything else can be added to make the taste and richer. 
.................

The process: 

Cutting the cabbage

First step: cut the cabbage. Grate the carrots and the celery. Cut finely the leeks. 

Crushing the cabbage. So it will languisheth a bit,
but that's okay -  it easier will absorb the spices! 

Second step: crush the cabbage! This procedure has a crucial meaning for the creation of a great salad! After that the cabbage will absorb easily the spices and will become more testy. Add the carrots, then put salt to taste and juice from one lemon (or two spoons from our homemade wine vinegar). Then stir and add the (sunflower/olive) oil. Stir again.

I am an adventurer and sometimes I'm tempted to experiment with additional tastes. From the ready material I'll make two different salads: for my father and for me. The difference is in the details.

My father's portion

My father prefers the classic salad with cabbage and carrots. No celery, no leeks, no lemon juice! Only cabbage, carrots, salt, wine vinegar, and sunflower oil. Well, I decided to decorate his salad with olives, which he accepted with pleasure.

My portion

Unlike my father, I was not limited to cabbage and carrots. I used a lemon juice, instead of vinegar, and an Extra-virgin olive oil, instead of sunflower oil. I added the grated celery and the finely chopped leeks. (Note: acrid taste of the salad can be achieved not only with leeks, but also by sprinkling with a little black pepper powder.) Additionally I put a piece of cheese. This salad was more experimental, and I have to say - it is good! John Kukouzel would be glad to taste it!

VeRy   ImPoRtAnT   nOtE: In the local tradition of Haskovo region, this salad perfectly matches a cup of rakiya and a long conversation! Nazdrave!

The Armenian cuisine and I

Do you know any Armenian? Or a person with Armenian origin? I do. Bulgarian Armenians are a very interesting community. What distinguishes the Armenians?

First, you can recognize an Armenian by its surname - it always ends with -yan. Like Karekinyan, Ovanesyan, Papazyan, Zenopyan... And their first names sound strange for an unfamiliar ear: Hovanna, Vartuhi, Frengyul, Garabed, Vartan, Zadik, Kevork and so on. 

Second, they have a strong sense of community. For example, the Armenians in my town Haskovo have a church, called "Surp Stepanos", and a Community center "Ararat". And this is for reason - they came here in a hard times, so identity and solidarity were their tools to survive..

The Armenian church in Haskovo

Third, there are no Armenians - peasants in Bulgaria. As refugees, they settled in the towns and they all became citizens - intellectuals, craftsmen, and workers. Up to this day, I do not know any Armenian in this country who lives in a village. 

Fourth, when you get to know them, you'll find that they have a great music, great dances... and a great cuisine! Via my friends +Mary Panduleva, +Petya Panduleva and +Simon Zenopian, last year I entered the magical world of the Armenian food during the culinary exhibition "The Armenian cuisine and I" in Haskovo.

And fifth, the Armenians easily adopt new influences and to add them to their own culture. The exhibition proved that they enrich their cuisine with new elements, but keep the essential fundamentals of their original, many centuries old food culture!

Images say more than words:

SALADS:

Armenian salad with manna croup

Salad by hadzhi Snezhana Garabed

Salad with sea gifts and clams

 Salad with carrots and  beet

MAIN COURSES:

Armenian meatballs

Armenian dolma (sarma)

Armenian byorek (banitsa)

Beans (Fasul pacha)

Havgite dolma

Potato balls

Armenian pasta with walnuts, garlic, and yellow cheese 

   

Stuffed eggplant Armenian style ( Karnı Yarık) 

Pirog with meat

Stuffed clams with rice

Gata

Armenian sweet bread

Armenian sweet bread

Armenian sweet bread

SWEETS:

Aganch

Baklava

Armenian "dry" baklava

Armenian cake

Armenian ribbons

Armenian ribbons

White sweets

By the end of the exhibition everything was eaten.

CONCLUSION

Armenian food is tasty and diverse after millennia of cultural encounters in the Middle East, and I strongly recommend it! This food connects people. It feeds the sense of community among these several hundreds Armenians in Haskovo today. So if you pass around, don't forget to ask for the Armenian church and Community center, and maybe you'll get into some exciting Armenian celebration with food, songs, and dances :)

More about Armenian cuisine: here.